In case the title left it unclear, I went to Stanage today. It was absolutely rammed. My goal was to try and do my top secret project, however sun drenched grit does not make for good conditions on heinous slopers. But it doesn't really matter cause I had a good day...
Anyway, arrived with Malcolm and a couple of other people at the popular end and trekked up to see if there was anything even vaguely quiet. As we walking past "The asp" (or is it the Rasp?) Malcolm reckoned it would be a good warm up. Clearly we have a different Idea of a warm up. Malcolm lead it very smoothly and seemingly easily, and I seconded him up it. Gave me a minor pump which is pretty shocking since it is only about 8 meters long. Oh well. We trekked further down and eventually reached the unconquerables. Everyone was doing left unconquerable so I figured I might as well have a crack on it. Lead it on preplaced gear (I'm taking f5) and cruised it pretty happily. It was really hot and I was feeling pretty lethargic so I really couldn't be bothered to do any climbing. Eventually mustered the motivation to go and try deliverance as it was coming into the shade. Went down and had a few goes, felt really good, I was tickling the top on my first attempt (I have tried this quite alot previously). Managed to fire it off about 5 goes later, well pleased, laid an old demon to rest again. This is my second 7b+ ever (For me, after the battles I have had with this I feel justified taking 7b+) after Carnage which I did a couple of weeks ago in font. Very chuffed. I figured since I had robbed Dave's video camera I should get some footage of it, and managed to repeat it next go on camera. Good stuff, will try and put a video up when I work out how to work the fucking thing.
Went to go and try Brad Pit, failed miserably, Malc looked strong on it though. Then sat around for an hour waiting for the temps to drop so I could try the project.
I traipsed over to it with a few mats and some spotters, I wasn't really feeling optimistic to be honest. The problem is very sustained with about 5 english 6b/c moves one after the other up a rounded bulge following a good line. It starts with a move to some pretty poor slopers, followed by a relatively easy move to a crimp. The next bit I find the hardest, a sort of dynamic move up to a moderate sloper and then basically a pull up using the sloper and the crimp to get your foot up and a "hero slap" to a good hold. After this you join the English 6b crux of another route which finishes up about 7m off the deck. After this you have to solo up HS territory to the top at about 12m. I think once I get to here I will be so psyched to have done it, the soloing won't bother me.
Anyways. I padded up the base of the problem and got ready. I tried to move off the starting holds up to the slopers, as soon as I hit them I greased off. Not to be defeated, I persisted trying. Alas, no hope. My final attempt I greased off and nearly face planted a nasty boulder. I'm pretty sure I could have been in A&E right now having my face rebuilt. It was very frustrating, I know I can do this problem as I have done all the moves previously. We found it when the bottom 8ft was buried in snow during the Snowballing era, and started playing on it then. I just need more skin and better conditions. The new peak bouldering guide is being published soon, adding a time limit as well, cause I think it is a worthy line to gain entry.
I can be a bit of a pussy some times, and this problem really doesn't suit my style as it is pretty powerful. If anyone wants to go up there at sunrise some time in the next few weeks that would be awesome. In the mean time fingerboarding to let my skin recover.
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