Saturday 26 June 2010
Monday 21 June 2010
Getting back into it
Well I recently had my exams at uni, meaning that life temporarily went on hold for a few weeks and the majority of my time was spent in the library feeling brain dead. Anytime not spent on work was filled with eating pizza and getting weak. Anyway, I think my hard work in the library might have paid off. We shall see.
Anyhow, a couple of days after my last exam I went to the Climbing works where I felt completely useless and weak. I had anticipated this happening so I wasn't particularly bothered. I had been to a rave 2 days before, and had spent the previous few days drinking pretty much solidly. I know this wasn't exactly the healthy option, but if there is one time to party it is after exams and everyone else is doing the same thing anyway.
Next trip out climbing was with my brother on my short return home. A nice evening session at the Langdale boulders, again I wasn't expecting be strong so me and Chris worked our way through some of the less climbed low grade problems. Since I have spent far too much time there over the years this was a very refreshing trip and a good way to spend the evening. It was good to see Chris getting better, his technique is improving and he moves more naturally on the rock. I want to take him to the bowderstone to do the crack now because I reckon he is easily capable.
My 3rd trip out since exams I went to the bowderstone. . I warmed up by doing the crack, then the crack direct. I was feeling strong. I had finally sweated out all that post exam partying. There was one other person bouldering, he was trying a problem that traversed across from the start of picnic sarcastic, through inaudible vaudible to a jug out left. I think it was called hot air and is 7B+. I joined him on that for a while and had a few decent attempts. I think I could probably do this problem with a bit of time, none of the moves were too difficult but it was quite sustained.
I had come to the stone to try Impropa Opera, which is a classic 7C with a number of variations. On reacquaintance with it I wasn't very inspired. A problem called Grand Opera which climbs out left of Impropa looked much more enticing. So me and my new friend started trying to the first move, which was a really long dynamic move to a hard to stick pinch. After a few attempts we worked out the beta but were having trouble sticking it. When we finally managed it, we realised the next move was even harder, despite being only a short move to a good edge, it was just a really difficult movement timing wise. I never quite managed it unfortunately but will be back to try again.
After that I managed a flash ascent of a 7A called bowderiser which finishes at a jug. By this point we had a 30 strong audience so I figured to keep the entertainment I would top it out. This was scary. I had to battle with a bush and some dirty crimps at altitude. Fun. This is my 3rd 7A flash to do date. Hurrah! Some more people turned up, and I did picnic sarcarstic 1st go (I have done it before) then tried the sit start to give someone who was trying it some beta. Nearly did it 1st go. Then tried coming up for air, a problem I have never tried before. It is pretty much a total jug fest but is very steep. I didn't manage it this time but I was pretty tired by this point. I also repeated the crack super direct at 7A.
So to summerise that day I managed 3 7As, one of which was a flash. Started working Grand opera, a hard 7C, and found a few new projects that should be a bit easier - Hot air (7B+) and coming up for air (7A+/B)
The final trip was to the duddon valley boulders, a spot which is mainly unknown because of its location in the eskdale valley, the long walk in and the relatively recent discovery. There are still a number of obvious projects up here which need doing according to lakes bloc, and to be honest they don't look that hard. There is a massive abundance of rock that needs exploring. I think alot could be developed in this area, including a number of scary looking highballs. I went with my brother and sister, Chris and Sarah this time. Chris and I did a few 6's and I managed a 7A+ after a few goes called Lingy von Bong chops. This is quite a nice problem with a few tricky pulls at the start and a scary but easy finish. It was a good day out.
I think im off to the thirlmere boulders this afternoon. They spend most their time submerged. Should be good.
Anyhow, a couple of days after my last exam I went to the Climbing works where I felt completely useless and weak. I had anticipated this happening so I wasn't particularly bothered. I had been to a rave 2 days before, and had spent the previous few days drinking pretty much solidly. I know this wasn't exactly the healthy option, but if there is one time to party it is after exams and everyone else is doing the same thing anyway.
Next trip out climbing was with my brother on my short return home. A nice evening session at the Langdale boulders, again I wasn't expecting be strong so me and Chris worked our way through some of the less climbed low grade problems. Since I have spent far too much time there over the years this was a very refreshing trip and a good way to spend the evening. It was good to see Chris getting better, his technique is improving and he moves more naturally on the rock. I want to take him to the bowderstone to do the crack now because I reckon he is easily capable.
My 3rd trip out since exams I went to the bowderstone. . I warmed up by doing the crack, then the crack direct. I was feeling strong. I had finally sweated out all that post exam partying. There was one other person bouldering, he was trying a problem that traversed across from the start of picnic sarcastic, through inaudible vaudible to a jug out left. I think it was called hot air and is 7B+. I joined him on that for a while and had a few decent attempts. I think I could probably do this problem with a bit of time, none of the moves were too difficult but it was quite sustained.
I had come to the stone to try Impropa Opera, which is a classic 7C with a number of variations. On reacquaintance with it I wasn't very inspired. A problem called Grand Opera which climbs out left of Impropa looked much more enticing. So me and my new friend started trying to the first move, which was a really long dynamic move to a hard to stick pinch. After a few attempts we worked out the beta but were having trouble sticking it. When we finally managed it, we realised the next move was even harder, despite being only a short move to a good edge, it was just a really difficult movement timing wise. I never quite managed it unfortunately but will be back to try again.
After that I managed a flash ascent of a 7A called bowderiser which finishes at a jug. By this point we had a 30 strong audience so I figured to keep the entertainment I would top it out. This was scary. I had to battle with a bush and some dirty crimps at altitude. Fun. This is my 3rd 7A flash to do date. Hurrah! Some more people turned up, and I did picnic sarcarstic 1st go (I have done it before) then tried the sit start to give someone who was trying it some beta. Nearly did it 1st go. Then tried coming up for air, a problem I have never tried before. It is pretty much a total jug fest but is very steep. I didn't manage it this time but I was pretty tired by this point. I also repeated the crack super direct at 7A.
So to summerise that day I managed 3 7As, one of which was a flash. Started working Grand opera, a hard 7C, and found a few new projects that should be a bit easier - Hot air (7B+) and coming up for air (7A+/B)
The final trip was to the duddon valley boulders, a spot which is mainly unknown because of its location in the eskdale valley, the long walk in and the relatively recent discovery. There are still a number of obvious projects up here which need doing according to lakes bloc, and to be honest they don't look that hard. There is a massive abundance of rock that needs exploring. I think alot could be developed in this area, including a number of scary looking highballs. I went with my brother and sister, Chris and Sarah this time. Chris and I did a few 6's and I managed a 7A+ after a few goes called Lingy von Bong chops. This is quite a nice problem with a few tricky pulls at the start and a scary but easy finish. It was a good day out.
I think im off to the thirlmere boulders this afternoon. They spend most their time submerged. Should be good.
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