Saturday 26 June 2010
Monday 21 June 2010
Getting back into it
Well I recently had my exams at uni, meaning that life temporarily went on hold for a few weeks and the majority of my time was spent in the library feeling brain dead. Anytime not spent on work was filled with eating pizza and getting weak. Anyway, I think my hard work in the library might have paid off. We shall see.
Anyhow, a couple of days after my last exam I went to the Climbing works where I felt completely useless and weak. I had anticipated this happening so I wasn't particularly bothered. I had been to a rave 2 days before, and had spent the previous few days drinking pretty much solidly. I know this wasn't exactly the healthy option, but if there is one time to party it is after exams and everyone else is doing the same thing anyway.
Next trip out climbing was with my brother on my short return home. A nice evening session at the Langdale boulders, again I wasn't expecting be strong so me and Chris worked our way through some of the less climbed low grade problems. Since I have spent far too much time there over the years this was a very refreshing trip and a good way to spend the evening. It was good to see Chris getting better, his technique is improving and he moves more naturally on the rock. I want to take him to the bowderstone to do the crack now because I reckon he is easily capable.
My 3rd trip out since exams I went to the bowderstone. . I warmed up by doing the crack, then the crack direct. I was feeling strong. I had finally sweated out all that post exam partying. There was one other person bouldering, he was trying a problem that traversed across from the start of picnic sarcastic, through inaudible vaudible to a jug out left. I think it was called hot air and is 7B+. I joined him on that for a while and had a few decent attempts. I think I could probably do this problem with a bit of time, none of the moves were too difficult but it was quite sustained.
I had come to the stone to try Impropa Opera, which is a classic 7C with a number of variations. On reacquaintance with it I wasn't very inspired. A problem called Grand Opera which climbs out left of Impropa looked much more enticing. So me and my new friend started trying to the first move, which was a really long dynamic move to a hard to stick pinch. After a few attempts we worked out the beta but were having trouble sticking it. When we finally managed it, we realised the next move was even harder, despite being only a short move to a good edge, it was just a really difficult movement timing wise. I never quite managed it unfortunately but will be back to try again.
After that I managed a flash ascent of a 7A called bowderiser which finishes at a jug. By this point we had a 30 strong audience so I figured to keep the entertainment I would top it out. This was scary. I had to battle with a bush and some dirty crimps at altitude. Fun. This is my 3rd 7A flash to do date. Hurrah! Some more people turned up, and I did picnic sarcarstic 1st go (I have done it before) then tried the sit start to give someone who was trying it some beta. Nearly did it 1st go. Then tried coming up for air, a problem I have never tried before. It is pretty much a total jug fest but is very steep. I didn't manage it this time but I was pretty tired by this point. I also repeated the crack super direct at 7A.
So to summerise that day I managed 3 7As, one of which was a flash. Started working Grand opera, a hard 7C, and found a few new projects that should be a bit easier - Hot air (7B+) and coming up for air (7A+/B)
The final trip was to the duddon valley boulders, a spot which is mainly unknown because of its location in the eskdale valley, the long walk in and the relatively recent discovery. There are still a number of obvious projects up here which need doing according to lakes bloc, and to be honest they don't look that hard. There is a massive abundance of rock that needs exploring. I think alot could be developed in this area, including a number of scary looking highballs. I went with my brother and sister, Chris and Sarah this time. Chris and I did a few 6's and I managed a 7A+ after a few goes called Lingy von Bong chops. This is quite a nice problem with a few tricky pulls at the start and a scary but easy finish. It was a good day out.
I think im off to the thirlmere boulders this afternoon. They spend most their time submerged. Should be good.
Anyhow, a couple of days after my last exam I went to the Climbing works where I felt completely useless and weak. I had anticipated this happening so I wasn't particularly bothered. I had been to a rave 2 days before, and had spent the previous few days drinking pretty much solidly. I know this wasn't exactly the healthy option, but if there is one time to party it is after exams and everyone else is doing the same thing anyway.
Next trip out climbing was with my brother on my short return home. A nice evening session at the Langdale boulders, again I wasn't expecting be strong so me and Chris worked our way through some of the less climbed low grade problems. Since I have spent far too much time there over the years this was a very refreshing trip and a good way to spend the evening. It was good to see Chris getting better, his technique is improving and he moves more naturally on the rock. I want to take him to the bowderstone to do the crack now because I reckon he is easily capable.
My 3rd trip out since exams I went to the bowderstone. . I warmed up by doing the crack, then the crack direct. I was feeling strong. I had finally sweated out all that post exam partying. There was one other person bouldering, he was trying a problem that traversed across from the start of picnic sarcastic, through inaudible vaudible to a jug out left. I think it was called hot air and is 7B+. I joined him on that for a while and had a few decent attempts. I think I could probably do this problem with a bit of time, none of the moves were too difficult but it was quite sustained.
I had come to the stone to try Impropa Opera, which is a classic 7C with a number of variations. On reacquaintance with it I wasn't very inspired. A problem called Grand Opera which climbs out left of Impropa looked much more enticing. So me and my new friend started trying to the first move, which was a really long dynamic move to a hard to stick pinch. After a few attempts we worked out the beta but were having trouble sticking it. When we finally managed it, we realised the next move was even harder, despite being only a short move to a good edge, it was just a really difficult movement timing wise. I never quite managed it unfortunately but will be back to try again.
After that I managed a flash ascent of a 7A called bowderiser which finishes at a jug. By this point we had a 30 strong audience so I figured to keep the entertainment I would top it out. This was scary. I had to battle with a bush and some dirty crimps at altitude. Fun. This is my 3rd 7A flash to do date. Hurrah! Some more people turned up, and I did picnic sarcarstic 1st go (I have done it before) then tried the sit start to give someone who was trying it some beta. Nearly did it 1st go. Then tried coming up for air, a problem I have never tried before. It is pretty much a total jug fest but is very steep. I didn't manage it this time but I was pretty tired by this point. I also repeated the crack super direct at 7A.
So to summerise that day I managed 3 7As, one of which was a flash. Started working Grand opera, a hard 7C, and found a few new projects that should be a bit easier - Hot air (7B+) and coming up for air (7A+/B)
The final trip was to the duddon valley boulders, a spot which is mainly unknown because of its location in the eskdale valley, the long walk in and the relatively recent discovery. There are still a number of obvious projects up here which need doing according to lakes bloc, and to be honest they don't look that hard. There is a massive abundance of rock that needs exploring. I think alot could be developed in this area, including a number of scary looking highballs. I went with my brother and sister, Chris and Sarah this time. Chris and I did a few 6's and I managed a 7A+ after a few goes called Lingy von Bong chops. This is quite a nice problem with a few tricky pulls at the start and a scary but easy finish. It was a good day out.
I think im off to the thirlmere boulders this afternoon. They spend most their time submerged. Should be good.
Monday 24 May 2010
A tale of two 7b+
Had a spiffing day at Rubicon today. Me, Dave and Charlie went to take on the sunshine after an exam in the morning, having figured this is our last full totally free day before getting sucked into revision. Anyway, to cut a long story short and I feel knackered, we ended up going to try Brachiation Dance, a classic (Soft) 7b+. I have never climbed 7b+ routes before, it isn't cause I am not capable, I have just never really done much sport climbing. Charlie went first. After attempting to do the slab at the bottom, and not being able to quite do it, I had a burn. Went on it and had to really stretch to reach the first clip after a few failed attempts. I basically ended up bolt to bolting the entire thing so as not to get knackered. Every single hold was a jug. What a gift. However the biggest problem was we weren't quite sure where the route ended. After each of us had more attempts on it trying to climb it in one from the ground, we got to the last moves - trying to grab some jugs round the final lip off a fairly pathetic difficult to see rounded crimp we were forced to give in. It felt like we had done the route (We had reached the last bolt!) but because the route had no real lower off we were lead to believe you have to basically top the route out and then drop onto the previous bolt. Oh well. So I either managed a 7b+ with relative ease, or well, just didn't do a 7b+. Meh.
Later on in the day I was psyched to get on the press after trying it a few weeks ago with Bob Hickish. The press is a 7B+ boulder problem which massive plays to my strengths. Crimping the life out of gastons on gently overhanging limestone. Perfect. I found I could do the press moves very easily and the only obstacle was the last dynamic move off a mining cheese grater crimp. After afew goes (3 according to my video camera) I crushed it. Literally crushed it. Miles Gibson told me about a way he did it, where he could take one hand off on the gaston move and drink from a bottle of water, I had to try it. I couldn't finish the problem but managed the drink. I also had some good attempts on The press low start which goes at 7c+. This should go soon I think.
Later on in the day I was psyched to get on the press after trying it a few weeks ago with Bob Hickish. The press is a 7B+ boulder problem which massive plays to my strengths. Crimping the life out of gastons on gently overhanging limestone. Perfect. I found I could do the press moves very easily and the only obstacle was the last dynamic move off a mining cheese grater crimp. After afew goes (3 according to my video camera) I crushed it. Literally crushed it. Miles Gibson told me about a way he did it, where he could take one hand off on the gaston move and drink from a bottle of water, I had to try it. I couldn't finish the problem but managed the drink. I also had some good attempts on The press low start which goes at 7c+. This should go soon I think.
The Press, Rubicon from Tom Butterworth on Vimeo.
Thursday 6 May 2010
Bouldering in Langdale with a shiny new toy
My dad bought a HD camcorder called a Sony Bloggie. I had already planned to go out climbing, but with the new toy I figured I could make a video of my local haunt - the Langdale boulders. I also planned to check out Rakerigg Crag in Langdale as Greg Chapman has recently put a topo for it on his Lakes bloc website. I have to say I thought it was a very good crag despite afew sharp holds. It is about 20-30 degress overhanging with lots of crimps and generally powerful climbing on mostly good rock, well worth a trip if you are in the langdale area and climbing above font 7a. While I didn't get to play at rakerigg for long i did do a font 7b which I was happy with called "The overlap", I came so excruciatingly close to flashing it though. The video I have included shows how close I came on my flash attempt, my fingers are literally on the finishing jug but slip off cause of how greasy they are. Anyway, the camera ran out of battery power so you don't get to see my successful attempt two goes later. I had a few goes on hyper kinetic (7c), this is a fantastic problem with small holds, big moves and quality rock. Didn't manage it but I will definitely be going back for it.
Bouldering at Langdale and Rakerigg from Tom Butterworth on Vimeo.
Saturday 1 May 2010
A week of contast
Despite being a self proclaimed "Lakes Boulderer" this week I have mostly enjoyed peak limestone trad at Stoney Middleton. Dave and I decided what summery evening that it would be good to just go and do a bit of easy trad climbing. Gritstone was quickly dismissed as a non-option so we headed out to the limestone at Stoney. We headed up to what I think is called the windy wall, we decided to Aurora arete / tiger trot link which is a 2 pitch HVS up the right hand side of the buttress. Dave took the 1st pitch and I took the second. The climbing was never really difficult, although sometimes it was slightly scary. There was a particularly nervous moment when the only gear I could find was a bad thread (Bad cause it looked like it would break) and all the rock in front of me looked extremely loose. I managed to pull off a few holds which was reassuring. Anyway, by the time we finished this route and abbed off it was getting dark. It was definately a fun experience which has given me new trad motivation.
Anyway the next day Dave and I returned and took on two classic E2s: Armageddon and Scoop Wall. Two completely different styles of route. Armageddon with a bouldery start and delicate climbing to finish. Scoop wall being a pumpy route with good holds and a technical finish. I took the lead on Armageddon and Dave did Scoop wall. My lead was pretty uneventful, I set off slightly nervous, but once I had dispatched the bouldery start, I knew the rest would be easy and climbed more confidently and smoothly to the top.
Dave's lead was a bit more interesting. For a bit of background Dave broke his back a couple of years ago on Old Friends at Stanage, a classic E4. He used to be pretty ballsy on the trad, but since then he has unsuprisingly had a hard time getting his confidence back. Considering most people wouldn't get back into climbing after such an accident, makes Dave's tenacity particularly inspirational. Anyway... back to Stoney:
I may have given Dave a bit of gentle encouragement to get on scoop wall. Dave got geared up and set off looking slightly nervous, he climbed up to beneath the first overhang and built a bomb shelter for himself. He climbed up and down back to his rest point afew times to try and work out a good sequence then after a few minutes, pulled round the overhang and quickly plowed up to the next rest point where he built another bomb shelter. After this rest comes the crux sequence, the guidebook describes it as, "only pumpy in the legs - if you get it right". Dave climbed up to the crux and experimented with the holds in order to try and crack the sequence. It all looked like it was going well from my point of view, climbing smoothly up on the available holds with what looked like a good sequence, then Dave just stopped halfway through the crux, looking flustered he shouted down "Take!" Fumbling with the ropes for a minute I eventually took in the rope and Dave slumped on to a rusty old peg. After a good 5 minute rest - and clearly not wanting to be defeated, Dave climbed up to the crux using the same sequence as last time, he paused for a second at the place where he fell, for a moment I thought he was off again, but he perservered and just kept on pulling and got through the crux. Clearly pumped out of his mind and a bit panicked he used his tactic of "Banging a cam in". He took a little rest by wedging himself into the rock and then finished the route off.
I followed him up and dismantled the bomb shelters - I suddenly understood why he built them despite the abundance of pegs, they all looked about 30 years old. When I got to the upper wall where Dave fell, I worked out a less pumpy sequence using some bridging, presumably this is what the book was on about. Dave told me when I finished the route that he almost didn't manage to place the cam, and was very close to falling off. Good fight.
Next Stoney trip I am hoping to Scare myself on an E4 6b called "Our Father" - Looks wicked, very bouldery start, and it looks like has enough protection for me not to completely shit myself.
In other weekly climbing events I had two trips to Cressbrook, both of which were fairly uneventful for me. I just found myself making excuses for my lack of ability. Also went to the Tor and had a little play on Powerband and Wild in me direct start. Feeling quite strong - powerband is definitely going down soon. Also went to Works and went on the motherboard, I came up with a really good problem but it is currently too hard for me, hopefully I will chip away at its defences and be capable of doing it soon. I realised I haven't done enough easy problems on the motherboard in a great enough volume, maybe if I do that I will have the power endurance to do powerband? Also managed to campus 1-4-7 leading with my right arm for the first time on the second largest set of rungs at the works. This is good. Will have to do 1-4-7 with my left next, but it doesn't even feel close.
Anyway the next day Dave and I returned and took on two classic E2s: Armageddon and Scoop Wall. Two completely different styles of route. Armageddon with a bouldery start and delicate climbing to finish. Scoop wall being a pumpy route with good holds and a technical finish. I took the lead on Armageddon and Dave did Scoop wall. My lead was pretty uneventful, I set off slightly nervous, but once I had dispatched the bouldery start, I knew the rest would be easy and climbed more confidently and smoothly to the top.
Dave's lead was a bit more interesting. For a bit of background Dave broke his back a couple of years ago on Old Friends at Stanage, a classic E4. He used to be pretty ballsy on the trad, but since then he has unsuprisingly had a hard time getting his confidence back. Considering most people wouldn't get back into climbing after such an accident, makes Dave's tenacity particularly inspirational. Anyway... back to Stoney:
I may have given Dave a bit of gentle encouragement to get on scoop wall. Dave got geared up and set off looking slightly nervous, he climbed up to beneath the first overhang and built a bomb shelter for himself. He climbed up and down back to his rest point afew times to try and work out a good sequence then after a few minutes, pulled round the overhang and quickly plowed up to the next rest point where he built another bomb shelter. After this rest comes the crux sequence, the guidebook describes it as, "only pumpy in the legs - if you get it right". Dave climbed up to the crux and experimented with the holds in order to try and crack the sequence. It all looked like it was going well from my point of view, climbing smoothly up on the available holds with what looked like a good sequence, then Dave just stopped halfway through the crux, looking flustered he shouted down "Take!" Fumbling with the ropes for a minute I eventually took in the rope and Dave slumped on to a rusty old peg. After a good 5 minute rest - and clearly not wanting to be defeated, Dave climbed up to the crux using the same sequence as last time, he paused for a second at the place where he fell, for a moment I thought he was off again, but he perservered and just kept on pulling and got through the crux. Clearly pumped out of his mind and a bit panicked he used his tactic of "Banging a cam in". He took a little rest by wedging himself into the rock and then finished the route off.
I followed him up and dismantled the bomb shelters - I suddenly understood why he built them despite the abundance of pegs, they all looked about 30 years old. When I got to the upper wall where Dave fell, I worked out a less pumpy sequence using some bridging, presumably this is what the book was on about. Dave told me when I finished the route that he almost didn't manage to place the cam, and was very close to falling off. Good fight.
Next Stoney trip I am hoping to Scare myself on an E4 6b called "Our Father" - Looks wicked, very bouldery start, and it looks like has enough protection for me not to completely shit myself.
In other weekly climbing events I had two trips to Cressbrook, both of which were fairly uneventful for me. I just found myself making excuses for my lack of ability. Also went to the Tor and had a little play on Powerband and Wild in me direct start. Feeling quite strong - powerband is definitely going down soon. Also went to Works and went on the motherboard, I came up with a really good problem but it is currently too hard for me, hopefully I will chip away at its defences and be capable of doing it soon. I realised I haven't done enough easy problems on the motherboard in a great enough volume, maybe if I do that I will have the power endurance to do powerband? Also managed to campus 1-4-7 leading with my right arm for the first time on the second largest set of rungs at the works. This is good. Will have to do 1-4-7 with my left next, but it doesn't even feel close.
Saturday 17 April 2010
Sunny Stanage on a Saturday
In case the title left it unclear, I went to Stanage today. It was absolutely rammed. My goal was to try and do my top secret project, however sun drenched grit does not make for good conditions on heinous slopers. But it doesn't really matter cause I had a good day...
Anyway, arrived with Malcolm and a couple of other people at the popular end and trekked up to see if there was anything even vaguely quiet. As we walking past "The asp" (or is it the Rasp?) Malcolm reckoned it would be a good warm up. Clearly we have a different Idea of a warm up. Malcolm lead it very smoothly and seemingly easily, and I seconded him up it. Gave me a minor pump which is pretty shocking since it is only about 8 meters long. Oh well. We trekked further down and eventually reached the unconquerables. Everyone was doing left unconquerable so I figured I might as well have a crack on it. Lead it on preplaced gear (I'm taking f5) and cruised it pretty happily. It was really hot and I was feeling pretty lethargic so I really couldn't be bothered to do any climbing. Eventually mustered the motivation to go and try deliverance as it was coming into the shade. Went down and had a few goes, felt really good, I was tickling the top on my first attempt (I have tried this quite alot previously). Managed to fire it off about 5 goes later, well pleased, laid an old demon to rest again. This is my second 7b+ ever (For me, after the battles I have had with this I feel justified taking 7b+) after Carnage which I did a couple of weeks ago in font. Very chuffed. I figured since I had robbed Dave's video camera I should get some footage of it, and managed to repeat it next go on camera. Good stuff, will try and put a video up when I work out how to work the fucking thing.
Went to go and try Brad Pit, failed miserably, Malc looked strong on it though. Then sat around for an hour waiting for the temps to drop so I could try the project.
I traipsed over to it with a few mats and some spotters, I wasn't really feeling optimistic to be honest. The problem is very sustained with about 5 english 6b/c moves one after the other up a rounded bulge following a good line. It starts with a move to some pretty poor slopers, followed by a relatively easy move to a crimp. The next bit I find the hardest, a sort of dynamic move up to a moderate sloper and then basically a pull up using the sloper and the crimp to get your foot up and a "hero slap" to a good hold. After this you join the English 6b crux of another route which finishes up about 7m off the deck. After this you have to solo up HS territory to the top at about 12m. I think once I get to here I will be so psyched to have done it, the soloing won't bother me.
Anyways. I padded up the base of the problem and got ready. I tried to move off the starting holds up to the slopers, as soon as I hit them I greased off. Not to be defeated, I persisted trying. Alas, no hope. My final attempt I greased off and nearly face planted a nasty boulder. I'm pretty sure I could have been in A&E right now having my face rebuilt. It was very frustrating, I know I can do this problem as I have done all the moves previously. We found it when the bottom 8ft was buried in snow during the Snowballing era, and started playing on it then. I just need more skin and better conditions. The new peak bouldering guide is being published soon, adding a time limit as well, cause I think it is a worthy line to gain entry.
I can be a bit of a pussy some times, and this problem really doesn't suit my style as it is pretty powerful. If anyone wants to go up there at sunrise some time in the next few weeks that would be awesome. In the mean time fingerboarding to let my skin recover.
Anyway, arrived with Malcolm and a couple of other people at the popular end and trekked up to see if there was anything even vaguely quiet. As we walking past "The asp" (or is it the Rasp?) Malcolm reckoned it would be a good warm up. Clearly we have a different Idea of a warm up. Malcolm lead it very smoothly and seemingly easily, and I seconded him up it. Gave me a minor pump which is pretty shocking since it is only about 8 meters long. Oh well. We trekked further down and eventually reached the unconquerables. Everyone was doing left unconquerable so I figured I might as well have a crack on it. Lead it on preplaced gear (I'm taking f5) and cruised it pretty happily. It was really hot and I was feeling pretty lethargic so I really couldn't be bothered to do any climbing. Eventually mustered the motivation to go and try deliverance as it was coming into the shade. Went down and had a few goes, felt really good, I was tickling the top on my first attempt (I have tried this quite alot previously). Managed to fire it off about 5 goes later, well pleased, laid an old demon to rest again. This is my second 7b+ ever (For me, after the battles I have had with this I feel justified taking 7b+) after Carnage which I did a couple of weeks ago in font. Very chuffed. I figured since I had robbed Dave's video camera I should get some footage of it, and managed to repeat it next go on camera. Good stuff, will try and put a video up when I work out how to work the fucking thing.
Went to go and try Brad Pit, failed miserably, Malc looked strong on it though. Then sat around for an hour waiting for the temps to drop so I could try the project.
I traipsed over to it with a few mats and some spotters, I wasn't really feeling optimistic to be honest. The problem is very sustained with about 5 english 6b/c moves one after the other up a rounded bulge following a good line. It starts with a move to some pretty poor slopers, followed by a relatively easy move to a crimp. The next bit I find the hardest, a sort of dynamic move up to a moderate sloper and then basically a pull up using the sloper and the crimp to get your foot up and a "hero slap" to a good hold. After this you join the English 6b crux of another route which finishes up about 7m off the deck. After this you have to solo up HS territory to the top at about 12m. I think once I get to here I will be so psyched to have done it, the soloing won't bother me.
Anyways. I padded up the base of the problem and got ready. I tried to move off the starting holds up to the slopers, as soon as I hit them I greased off. Not to be defeated, I persisted trying. Alas, no hope. My final attempt I greased off and nearly face planted a nasty boulder. I'm pretty sure I could have been in A&E right now having my face rebuilt. It was very frustrating, I know I can do this problem as I have done all the moves previously. We found it when the bottom 8ft was buried in snow during the Snowballing era, and started playing on it then. I just need more skin and better conditions. The new peak bouldering guide is being published soon, adding a time limit as well, cause I think it is a worthy line to gain entry.
I can be a bit of a pussy some times, and this problem really doesn't suit my style as it is pretty powerful. If anyone wants to go up there at sunrise some time in the next few weeks that would be awesome. In the mean time fingerboarding to let my skin recover.
Monday 12 April 2010
A new way to procrastinate
I have two reasons for writing a blog:
1) Motivation to try harder, I hope this to be kind of like a training diary but public so people can mock me for it. Resulting in me trying harder to prove them wrong, with the end result being me climbing harder things / failing more often as a result of my crushed ego.
2) I am going to Squamish in summer! It would be good to let my friends and family know how its going, and to be able to post pictures or videos as evidence of how much fun i'm having.
Because I have just started this blog, and at the moment it looks a bit naked, I will probably pad it out with some photo's from my recent font trip, and a video from the last night (which I haven't seen, and I don't remember - damned 5 euro a barrel wine) 0f myself talking about rubbing something into Alex Puccio's shoulders. All will be revealed.
1) Motivation to try harder, I hope this to be kind of like a training diary but public so people can mock me for it. Resulting in me trying harder to prove them wrong, with the end result being me climbing harder things / failing more often as a result of my crushed ego.
2) I am going to Squamish in summer! It would be good to let my friends and family know how its going, and to be able to post pictures or videos as evidence of how much fun i'm having.
Because I have just started this blog, and at the moment it looks a bit naked, I will probably pad it out with some photo's from my recent font trip, and a video from the last night (which I haven't seen, and I don't remember - damned 5 euro a barrel wine) 0f myself talking about rubbing something into Alex Puccio's shoulders. All will be revealed.
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